In this article, we’ll look at some of the most important considerations. We’ll also show you how to choose the best size of bicycle for your child, and we’ll look at a variety of the typical bikes that are available.
In the past, very young children tended to ride trikes or children’s bicycles with additional training stabilizer wheels, however the balance bike has now become a very common choice of bicycle to introduce kids to cycling.
Also known as a bike without pedals or a walking bike, the balance bike is the perfect way to learn how to ride a bike from the age of two and a half. It helps the child in his search for stability while promoting his independence and self-confidence.
In this article we will see how, in just a few steps of removing the pedal and the drive chain, we can turn a standard child’s bike into a DIY balance bike. Continue reading Turning Your Child’s Bike into a Balance Bike
About to teach your child to ride a bike? Here are some useful tips and advice…
The sunny days are approaching, your child is growing … and it feels like the right time to get him on his bike. Typically, learning to ride a child’s bicycle follows a number of steps. Here is a small guide for your child to help get him or her pedalling. Continue reading How to Teach a Child to Ride a Bike
After checking the condition of your bike chain , I propose to you today to see together how properly to lubricate its chain of bike .
The role of bike lube
The lubrication of your bike’s chain has two roles:
it avoids the mechanical friction of the chain on the teeth of your speed group (sprockets, rollers, etc.).
It protects the metal parts from moisture, and therefore rust.
In this picture, there are already some rusting tasks on my chain: it will be necessary to think about changing soon.
rust on bike chain
A properly lubricated chain will slide perfectly on all parts of your gear group. You will therefore gain in speed and comfort if the lubrication of the chain is perfect.
Choosing the Right Oil
There are several types of oils to grease your chain. The best known can be spray (with a sprayer), or liquids .
Spray oil is easy to apply; however, I rarely use it. The oil is often of poor quality and badly distributed on your speed group. However, it remains very practical to troubleshoot, during a long bike ride for example.
choose bike lubricant
I chose to use liquid grease . It is simpler to apply , often of good quality and you can create your own mixtures . Indeed, I use two types of liquid greases: one for dry weather, lighter and less sticky, and one for wet weather, thicker texture. The latter will tend to make more sludge but is essential in winter, when it rains often: its resistance to weather is much better.
Apply lubricant to the chain
First of all, it is essential to properly clean your bike chain to avoid adding lubricant on a layer of sludge. That would be counterproductive.
Once your chain is perfectly clean, have an old toothbrush and put your oil mixture on it .
how to apply bike oil
Hold your toothbrush firmly under your chain and rotate the pedal. The chain will therefore pass on your toothbrush full of oil . Do the same for the top of the chain, as well as both sides.
grease the bike chain
If you have put enough lubricant on your brush, just rotating the chain should also lubricate the rollers and trays. Do not hesitate to change gears and plates several times to correctly spread the oil on all parts of the gear unit.
You can also add a little oil to the various parts of the gear unit (derailleurs, rollers, etc.) with your toothbrush.
oil bicycle trays
The principle of “who can most can do the least” is not valid when lubricating the chain 😉If it is necessary to lubricate the chain sufficiently to avoid hearing disturbing noise when it is turning, it will be necessary to avoid too grease it! Otherwise, it will clog up much faster and you will need to clean it again quickly.
Finally, once the manipulation is carried out, do not hesitate to pass a blow of absorbing paper on your chain to remove the surplus .
remove bike oil
Finally, consider adjusting the amount of fat as a function of time . Wet / wet weather will require regular lubrication of your chain. You can therefore afford to increase the amount of oil.
To go on holiday or weekend, the bike rack is very useful. With family or friends, it allows you to transport all bicycles safely. Feu Vert offers you a wide range of technical products at the best price!
CHOOSING YOUR BIKE CARRIER
The bike rack you choose will depend on the frequency and conditions of use, your budget and of course the number of bicycles you want to carry.
Good to know: There are bike racks that are equipped with anti-theft systems. Some models of bicycle racks require a hitch. To choose and have your team hit click here.
There are 4 different fastening systems:
Roof rack bicycle racks: can be installed in parallel with a roof box, allows free access to the trunk of the car. the bike carrier that attaches to the roof bars allows you to keep a good view at the rear. Suitable for occasional use as the loading and unloading of bicycles is the simplest.
Bicycle rack for trunk attachment: allows to transport several bicycles without installing roof bars or couplings, condemns access to the trunk. Can be fixed with straps. Suitable for occasional use because this roof box condemns access to the safe.
Bicycle carrier suspended on ball coupling: very easy to assemble, the reclining models allow access to the trunk. Frequent use. It is the safest way to transport your bikes.
Treadmill bike carrier: practical, simple to assemble and to load, very secure (good stability up to 4 bikes), the reclining models offer access to the trunk. Suitable for frequent use.
Tip: it’s like cross-country skiing! When you go out for a bike ride of more than 10 minutes, the best clue to adjust your clothing remains your cold tolerance. The ideal is to have a bit cold at the moment of the first pedal stroke, history to be comfortable after having traveled the first kilometers. If you feel warm when you leave, you may find the third layer of fleece superfluous after a few minutes of pedaling!
On your head
Summer helmet + tuque + cache-col : you want to live a first experience of winter bike but do not want to invest masses in specialized clothing? You can simply put on a thin toque under your helmet and a mask!
Helmet winter + collar : the ultimate! The winter helmet is the helmet that you can also wear in skiing. With its integrated earmuffs and its shape designed to accommodate your ski goggles, this helmet is perfectly suited to face the winter on your two wheels! Just think of putting a collar, because this helmet does not assume the protection of your neck … this is its only defect!
Ski goggles: in cold or snowy weather, to prevent your eyes from freezing or to parry the snowflakes, put on your ski goggles! It is a must-have accessory for the four-season cyclist.
Waterproof and breathable coat : (5 ° C and +) ideal for a rainy autumn day! The coat protects you from wind and water without too much sweat, especially if it is equipped with ventilation slides, perfect for aeration of your underarms!
Waterproof and breathable coat : (-5 ° C to + 5 ° C) at this temperature, conditions are difficult to predict … The watchword: to stay dry, because by -5 ° C, to be wet, it is the poison, especially if the wind rises! Always have a waterproof coat that protects you from dirt.
Winter coat: (-5 ° C and below) when winter comes and you blow its icy wind and its flakes in the face, you must adorn yourself! In this situation, wearing your winter coat is the best solution. A cross-country coat with good ventilation is ideal, but your good old winter coat is also good. If it’s very cold? Just add an underlay!
Gloves and Mittens
Small neoprene gloves : (5 ° C and +) neoprene gloves are ideal to keep your hands warm even in the rain!
Three-finger gloves : (-5 ° C to + 5 ° C) choose a warm winter glove … three fingers for better dexterity!
Mittens : (-5 ° C and less) since these are the ends that freeze most quickly, protect your hands and opt for a good pair of warm mitts! If you are a chilly type or the temperature drops below -15 ° C, you can add small gloves inside your mittens.
Waterproof and breathable pants : (5 ° C and +) when the weather is rainy, wearing this type of trousers provides perfect comfort! It slips as much over a shorts in summer, as over pants when the mercury is lower!
Waterproof and breathable trousers : (-15 ° C to + 5 ° C) in winter, wearing waterproof and breathable pants over your outfit will keep you warm and protect you from dirt!
Waterproof and breathable trousers : (-30 ° C to -15 ° C) in cold weather, it is essential to protect yourself from the wind and to remove moisture! For that, wearing a waterproof and breathable pants over a hot suit or pants will suck you perfectly.
In your feet
Rain boots : (5 ° C and +) to keep your feet dry, a good old pair of rain boots does the trick on short distances. Otherwise, expect your feet to be soaked … sweating!
Shoes + waterproof shoe covers : (-15 ° C to + 5 ° C) to protect your feet, put on a waterproof shoe cover over your favorite shoes will give you great comfort, without compromising your style once you reach your destination !
Winter Boots : (-30 ° C to -15 ° C) in your feet, a warm winter boot … but make sure you’re comfortable on your pedals.
Do you own a bike? Well you can ride the winter! There is no perfect bike for the cold season … every cyclist has his / her preferences. So, if you want to learn, you can certainly use this good old bike that transports you so well all the other months of the year!
Tip: Before starting, make sure your brake and gear systems are working and that your chain is properly lubricated. Note also that in the winter, the pavement is wet so think of you and the others by equipping yourself with complete mudguards.
Tip: winter freezes! Remember to always have a small bottle of locking deicer in your bag or in your coat pocket so that you do not start the day in the bad mood and the delay … (Very inexpensive, available in hardware stores or stores bikes and very little space).
In winter, the days will shorten and your journeys will often take place in the dark. To ride safely, add lights to your bike: a white light at the front and a red at the rear.
Tip: If your journey is poorly lit, you will need a lighthouse to see well, with a power of about 150 lumens or more. On a well-lit course, a lighthouse of 60 to 150 lumens will allow other road users to see you.
Tip: As the cold is hard for batteries, consider recharging them frequently or having a set of spare lights.
Tip: If the road is slippery, you can reduce the pressure of your tires. Be careful not to go below the minimum pressure recommended by the manufacturer (follow the indications on the edge of your tires). A slightly softer tire will offer better grip.
Studded : these tires, designed for snow, cold and ice, will allow you to adhere well to the slippery road thanks to their band of small nails. This remarkable traction has however a price: they are heavier and make your progression slower or more demanding and are quite expensive.
Cyclocross : Versatile and inexpensive tires! Since they are rather thin, they are able to splitthe snow and to reach the asphalt even through a thick layer of snow. Effective! On the other hand, they adhere little to the ice. Drive with caution. Affordable price.
Mountain : these wide tires with crampons, also very affordable, adhere very well to the roadway even when it is wet. However, they adhere more readily to snowy and icy surfaces. Drive with caution. Affordable price.
Derailleur (s) : This is the most conventional system on the market, since they are generally affordable and fairly reliable. On the other hand, they can freeze in cold weather. It is therefore recommended to choose a ratio that suits us and avoid changing the speeds.
Hub at internal speeds : as the speeds are protected inside the hub, the risks of breakage are practically zero and the system is efficient in all conditions! This system will, however, make your beast burdensome and is a little more expensive to buy.
Single speed (standard and fixed gear) : the fewer parts, the less risk of breakage! On the other hand, since there is only one speed, it is sometimes more difficult to advance. Attention, the one-wheel freewheelstandard can also freeze in very cold weather. And for the followers of the fixed pinion, have at least one emergency brake!
On rims (V-brake, cantilever) : their jaws close on the rim of the wheel. This type of brake is quite effective, albeit a little less when the pavement is wet. Beware of frost during temperature deviations! The rims and brake pads will also tend to wear out prematurely in the winter.
Backpedal : As it is integrated into the hub, it is a very reliable system, regardless of the conditions. On the other hand, the bike will be more skidded with such a braking system; a minimum of practice is required before taking the road, and an additional brake is recommended.
discs: this system is very effective in all conditions but is rather fragile … It requires a little maintenance, and depending on the quality, is relatively expensive compared to other braking systems.
Drums : a good choice in all conditions. A durable purchase, which requires little maintenance since it is sheltered from bad weather. However, emergency braking is less efficient than other systems … keep your distance! Weak point: it is very heavy and requires a compatible hub.
Tip: Remember to slightly reduce the height of your saddle in early winter. The icy roadway and challenging conditions will sometimes require you to set foot on the ground quickly to keep you in balance or to keep you in balance. You will return it to the return of the beautiful days!
The watchword: lubrication! Do not neglect your channel, otherwise your travels will be neglected during winter! Adopt a more viscous chain lubricant than in the summer season, which is more than 24 hours in wet conditions, but do not forget to wipe off excess with a cloth to prevent it from accumulating dirt as quickly as you clean it. You can then supplement with a more liquid lubricant as needed.
Also remember to lubricate the other components of your bike (braking system, radius nuts, derailleur, crankset, etc.) a few times during winter to improve performance and reduce the risk of freezing.
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR CHILD BIKE?
It is essential to choose a good bike for children. With your help, he will learn very quickly to ride on two wheels like the biggest! You must choose a reliable bike adapted to its age and size.
.The questions to be asked
Before choosing the bike, it is necessary to ask these few questions:
– Is the size of the bike well suited?
– is the weight of the bike light enough?
– do the speeds change easily?
– Is the saddle comfortable?
– Are the wheels indispensable?
The manufacturers propose models of bicycles adapted to the age and capacities of the child.
bikes for children
The balance bike is ideal for a child of 2 years. It allows him to learn to keep in balance. To move forward, he must simply push the draiser with his feet. With this bike, the child will move more quickly from small wheels.
The small wheeled bike is intended for a 3 year old child. The wheels ensure stability and balance. The bike is adapted to its morphology. It is equipped with small playful accessories like a bell or a basket.
The bicycle without training wheels is perfect for a child who has already learned to pedal on two wheels (usually 5 – 10 years). There are ATVs and VTCs adapted to the morphology and size of the children. Several sizes are proposed.
Thebike junior is ideal for a child of 10 years knowing perfectly how to handle the two-wheeled. You have to buy a junior bike when the child becomes too big for his little bike. It allows you to cross obstacles, climb slopes and brake easily. This is the ultimate step before switching to an adult bike.
The child bike is thought to help him learn how to ride easily.
The pieces used are chosen carefully:
– frame: the smaller the child, the lower the frame and the center. The child should not have difficulty climbing on it.
– fixed gear: when the pedals are no longer used, the wheel stops rotating. It is an indispensable safety for a child who is not used to using the brakes.
– adjustable saddle without tool: the child adjusts easily according to its size.
– speeds: the child must be familiar with the shift. This will facilitate his conduct in the coasts. The child bike can consist of up to 6 speeds.
– chain enclosed: the casing protects the chain and the child. She must not come into contact with the child’s feet and fingers. Thanks to the chain guard, the laces do not become entangled in the chain.
– castors: they facilitate the learning of the two wheels. They are easy to dismantle.
A good maintenance of your bike protects you from complications such as:
the bike repair at a pro
apply a bicycle patch because of a puncture.
Basic bike care: safety and comfort
The maintenance of a bicycle is done on several levels:
take daily care of his bike,
repair it or entrust it to a repairer,
change a wheel when necessary.
To take care of your bike, you must:
clean and lubricate after each use,
check the adjustment of each element before use.
It does not take much time, but can:
extend the life of the bike and its components,
improve the comfort of use.
Cleaning the bike: how to use it
Cleaning your bike requires a little equipment.
Cleaning your bike: the necessary equipment
Some shops offer complete maintenance kits (about $15). Choose a clean and spaced location and take care of yourself:
a jump of water,
a bicycle maintenance product,
of clean and dry cloths,
a lubricant for a bicycle,
of a degreaser for bicycle.
Warning ! The dishwasher deteriorates the frame.
Steps to clean the bike
Here are the 3 stages of maintenance of the bike:
Dry or wet cleaning
To clean the bike frame, you can use a water sponge and cleaning product: all items that do not fear water can be cleaned as well.
Instead, use a clean rag on rust-sensitive parts, rims, handles and spokes, and some stools that can absorb water.
Caution: conventional water jets and pressurized water jets can damage the frame.
All parts cleaned with detergent and water should be rinsed to leave no traces.
Caution: Do not touch the handles and brakes, they can not stand the water.
Even in the sun, it is important not to let your bike dry.
If the bike remains wet, its components deteriorate more quickly.
To remove the water, simply rub the wet components gently with a dry cloth.
Bike care: degrease and lubricate the chain
The chain may make noise when it is dirty. To remove dirt:
spray degreasing solution on each of the small trays of the rear wheel,
rotate the chain on each tray to spread out the product.
To ensure gear change, the chain must be lubricated. For it :
spray a lubricating solution on each of the small trays on the rear wheel,
rotate the chain on each tray to spread out the product,
then wipe the overflow with a cloth, taking care not to dirty your hands.
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Here are some simple sessions to teach you how to use your bike spinning or indoor cycling.
One of the special features of the spinning bike is that you do not have a speedometer or system to measure your effort. You adjust your resistance to sensations.
Spinning training sessions
Some remarks are necessary: as simple as it may seem pedaling is technical.
One can not push in the pedals without real resistance under penalty of finding the saddle particularly uncomfortable by jumping on it with each return of cranks.
Conversely, to put too much resistance to have an effective cadence of pedaling does not make sense.
Some “spinners” are equipped with a cadence meter, use it to stall your pedaling:
warm-up – easy pedaling: 90 rpm (round per minute or crankset per minute),
riding or pedaling in force: 70-80 rpm,
time trial or velocity: 100-110 rpm.
Besides the monotonous aspect of training alone, you will gain efficiency by focusing on your goal and technique.
Improvement of general endurance
Or how to replace the Sunday footing with a more complete and less traumatic exercise!
Indeed, if your joints no longer support the running, they will appreciate the bike more. As a warm-up before a weight training or as a single goal, pedal at a gradual rate to raise body temperature and heart rate.
From 15 minutes, you can adjust the resistance of your bike to increase the difficulty.
Keep in mind to keep a rhythmic pedaling despite the difficulty.
Example of session:
Warm-up: 10-15 ‘in flexibility.
Body: 25-35 ‘at regular rhythm (close to 90 rpm or 70% maximum heart rate (or max. HR))
Cool down: 5-10’ slow
Total duration: 40-60 ‘.
Improved muscle strength
Cycling is probably the way to strengthen your legs in the most complete way. Pedaling is such a complete exercise that a dozen weight machines are needed to match it. Quadriceps, glutes, calves, adductors, everything passes!
In order to strengthen your legs harmoniously, take an increasingly important resistance while maintaining an optimal pedaling quality.
In order to use the abdominals while pedaling, you can position your hands on the handlebars but without grasping it: thus, you will not pull on the latter and will be forced to contract your chocolate plate firmly to be powerful.
Example of session:
Warm-up: 10-15 ‘in flexibility.
Body: 3 blocks of 5 to 8 ‘at a rate of 70-80 rpm (adjust the resistance accordingly)
Recovery by pedaling without resistance between 2 and 4’.
Cool down: 5-10 ‘slow
Total time: 40-60’.
>> Read our file: Make abdominals to breathe better?
Improved muscle tone
Spinning training sessions
It is the counterpart of strength in cycling; it is necessary to be able to turn the pedals quickly at the risk of being hurt!
Everything is a matter of control and again, with tight abdominals: it is not a question of pedaling without resistance on his indoor bike but adopting a cadence close to 110-120 rpm while maintaining a position almost frozen.
Any jumping on the saddle or movement of the bust is to be avoided as all your energy has to go in your legs and pedal.
Example of session:
Warm-up: 10-15 ‘in flexibility.
Body: 6-8 blocks alternating (1 ‘force 70 rpm – velocity 110 rpm)
Cool down: 5-10’ slow
Total time: 30-40 ‘.
Improved PMA or Maximum Aerobic Power
The PMA is the equivalent of the Maximum Aerobic Speed in running. This still does not tell you anything and well it is the maximum speed (or power) that allows you to stay in endurance. Beyond that, your effort would be short because too violent.
To improve this quality, split training is ideal: in short but intense sequences, you can gradually increase the durations of effort.
Example of session:
Warm-up: 10-15 ‘in flexibility.
Body session: 6-12 blocks alternating (30 ” dancer – 30 ” seated in a quiet pedaling)
(40 ” dancer – 20 ” seated in a quiet pedaling)
(1 ‘dancer – 30’ ‘seated in quiet pedaling)
(1 ‘dancer – 30’ ‘pedaling seated fast – 30’ ‘sitting in quiet pedaling)
Cool down: 5-10’ slow
Total Time: 25-50.
Which is best, cycling vs running? This is a common question, and the simple answer is that running is compatible with cycling and vice versa. Running is an endurance sport close to cycling. It is compatible, but above all complementary to the practice of cycling. The benefits of a double activity running and cycling are numerous. On the one hand, the muscles are used differently in both disciplines. Running allows for adaptive musculo-skeletal benefits for cycling. On the other hand, the energy aspect of running is very similar to that of road cycling. The cardiovascular stresses are similar and the benefits of the endurance qualities are reproducible in both disciplines.
In short, the practice of running is the twin discipline of the bike. It requires adaptation, but it can be complementary throughout the season, even outside the winter period.
Common Training Patterns for Cycling vs Running.
During a jog, cardiac activity is fairly stable. Your heart beats at about 70% of your maximum heart rate. This level of intensity corresponds to the stamina of cycling.
From there, the cardiovascular benefits are the same whether in running or cycling. This reproducibility applies to all intensities encountered in competition. Thus, a session of maximum aerobic power type 30s30s by bike allows the same central adaptations as a session of maximum aerobic speed in running.
As part of your training, if you have option of including running, don’t hesitate to integrate several sessions of running in place of the bike. On the one hand, the progress from your training will be strengthened and on the other hand, you will break with the monotony of doing 100% bike practice all season. The sessions can be diversified from recovery jogs to full aerobic workouts.
Beginners should start slowly at first with a progressive practice and on soft ground such as the forest. To avoid injuries, it is important to allow time for the musculo-skeletal system to adapt to the practice of running, which brings more mechanical stresses than the bike. Make sure you have a good pair of running shoes, tailored to your practice and morphology. Shoes for running on the road are different from those for the trail.
Running Sessions = Reduced Training Time.
Just like disciplines such as cross-country skiing, running has a very good “energy expenditure / training time” ratio. Indeed, the energy expenditure in running is greater than that of cycling. For example, for a 70 kg man carrying 1 hour of training, he will spend 800 Kcal while jogging at 10 km / h against 380 Kcal for a bike ride at 25 km / h. In short, he must do 2 hours of biking or 1 hour of running to obtain the same energy expenditure. This aspect is very attractive for people in training time deficit. In order to reconcile professional and family constraints with your passion, running is a solution to enhance your training schedules.
Running is an excellent sport for general fitness.
So where does cycling vs running fit with regards to fitness? Cycling has the particularity of being a sport where the forces exerted on the body can lead to tensions and muscle imbalances. Running is, on the contrary, a sport that needs good balance and form. Muscular contractions are different from cycling. The muscular chains from the top to the bottom of the body are stressed, which allows adaptations to the entire physical condition. Incorporating sessions of running into your training can help prevent injuries during your season, but also reinforce your strength in your core, leading to increased efficiency on the bike .
In summary, running is a discipline that is perfectly compatible with cycling and, in some situations, it can be complementary to the physical preparation of a cyclist. To avoid injuries and obtain the most benefit, it is necessary to take the time to learn to run smoothly and efficiently. Be progressive in your training volumes and vary the routes and surfaces you run on. If you have sensitivities in your joints or tendons, try to run on soft ground, but be careful with mountain and trail routes, as the impacts in the descents can be pretty severe.
So there you have it, rather than think about cycling vs running, we recommend you choose cycling and running!